The comfort of things in White Australia : Male immigrants, race and the three-piece suit, c.1901–39

Journal article


Bellanta, Melissa and Cramer, Lorinda. (2023). The comfort of things in White Australia : Male immigrants, race and the three-piece suit, c.1901–39. Australian Historical Studies. 54(3), pp. 483-510. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2022.2161587
AuthorsBellanta, Melissa and Cramer, Lorinda
Abstract

Within a decade of moving to Australia in 1897, Japanese immigrant Setsutaro Hasegawa commissioned a number of three-piece suits and separates from a local tailor. Hasegawa perhaps found it difficult to afford this clothing, given his occupation as a laundryman at the time. Using Hasegawa as a case study, this article highlights the importance of three-piece suits for masculine dignity and belonging in Australia during the heyday of the White Australia Policy. More specifically, the article emphasises the role of what it calls ‘quietly stylish’ suits for non-white, self-consciously respectable, lower middle-class migrants such as Hasegawa. Using perspectives from material culture studies and foregrounding the under-researched topic of dress (especially men’s dress) among Australian social historians of the early twentieth century, we suggest that such suits helped their wearers to subtly assert their manhood, be accepted in their local communities and more generally feel comfortable in this ‘white man’s country’.

Keywordsimmigrant; Japan; Australia; White Australia Policy; dress history ; social history
Year01 Jan 2023
JournalAustralian Historical Studies
Journal citation54 (3), pp. 483-510
PublisherRoutledge
ISSN1031-461X
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2022.2161587
Web address (URL)https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/1031461X.2022.2161587
Open accessPublished as non-open access
Research or scholarlyResearch
Page range483-510
Publisher's version
License
All rights reserved
File Access Level
Controlled
Output statusPublished
Publication dates
Online16 Feb 2023
Publication process dates
Deposited03 Jul 2024
ARC Funded ResearchThis output has been funded, wholly or partially, under the Australian Research Council Act 2001
Grant IDDP190103341
Additional information

© Editorial Board, Australian Historical Studies 2023

This work was supported by Australian Research Council: [grant number DP190103341].

Place of publicationAustralia
Permalink -

https://acuresearchbank.acu.edu.au/item/90q8v/the-comfort-of-things-in-white-australia-male-immigrants-race-and-the-three-piece-suit-c-1901-39

Restricted files

Publisher's version

  • 21
    total views
  • 0
    total downloads
  • 0
    views this month
  • 0
    downloads this month
These values are for the period from 19th October 2020, when this repository was created.

Export as

Related outputs

Fashion and First Peoples in European Settler Societies, 1700-1850
Bellanta, Melissa. (2023). Fashion and First Peoples in European Settler Societies, 1700-1850. In In Breward, Christopher, Lemire, Beverly and Riello, Giorgio (Ed.). The Cambridge Global History of Fashion : From Antiquity to the Nineteenth Century, vol. 1 pp. 672 Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/9781108850353.022
In “the Finest Australian Wool” : Foy & Gibson’s healthy, comfortable, wool-clad bodies, 1900–1939
Cramer, Lorinda. (2023). In “the Finest Australian Wool” : Foy & Gibson’s healthy, comfortable, wool-clad bodies, 1900–1939. Journal of Australian Studies. pp. 1-22. https://doi.org/10.1080/14443058.2023.2250800
“Well-dressed” in suits of Australian wool : The global fiber wars and masculine material literacy, 1950–1965
Bellanta, Melissa and Cramer, Lorinda. (2023). “Well-dressed” in suits of Australian wool : The global fiber wars and masculine material literacy, 1950–1965. Fashion Theory. pp. 1-28. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2023.2228009
Tropical whites : Hegemonic masculinity and menswear at the crossroads of Australia and Asia, 1900–1939
Bellanta, Melissa and Cramer, Lorinda. (2022). Tropical whites : Hegemonic masculinity and menswear at the crossroads of Australia and Asia, 1900–1939. Gender and History. pp. 1-25. https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.12640
‘Clothes shall mark the man’ : Wearing suits in wartime Australia, 1939–1945
Cramer, Lorinda and Bellanta, Melissa. (2022). ‘Clothes shall mark the man’ : Wearing suits in wartime Australia, 1939–1945. Cultural and Social History. 19(1), pp. 57-76. https://doi.org/10.1080/14780038.2022.2031424
Relaxed bodies and comfortable clothes : Reframing masculinity in post-war Australia
Cramer, Lorinda. (2021). Relaxed bodies and comfortable clothes : Reframing masculinity in post-war Australia. Gender and History. 33(2), pp. 390-407. https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.12515
Needlework and women's identity in colonial Australia
Cramer, Lorinda. (2020). Needlework and women's identity in colonial Australia Bloomsbury Publishing plc.
‘Busy, without thimbles, at the needlework’ : Men’s sewing and masculinity on the Victorian goldfields, 1851–1861
Cramer, Lorinda. (2020). ‘Busy, without thimbles, at the needlework’ : Men’s sewing and masculinity on the Victorian goldfields, 1851–1861. Journal of Victorian Culture. 25(2), pp. 153-170. https://doi.org/10.1093/jvcult/vcz063
Rethinking men’s dress through material sources : The case study of a singlet
Cramer, Lorinda. (2020). Rethinking men’s dress through material sources : The case study of a singlet. Australian Historical Studies. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2020.1772328
‘Hidden from view’?: An analysis of the integration of women’s history and women’s voices into Australia’s social history exhibitions
Cramer, Lorinda and Witcomb, Andrea. (2019). ‘Hidden from view’?: An analysis of the integration of women’s history and women’s voices into Australia’s social history exhibitions. International Journal of Heritage Studies. 25(2), pp. 128 - 142. https://doi.org/10.1080/13527258.2018.1475409
Remembering and fighting for their own: Vietnam veterans and the Long Tan Cross
Cramer, Lorinda and Witcomb, Andrea. (2018). Remembering and fighting for their own: Vietnam veterans and the Long Tan Cross. Australian Historical Studies. 49(1), pp. 83 - 102. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2017.1394887
Diggers’ dress and identity on the Victorian Goldfields, Australia, 1851‒1870
Cramer, Lorinda. (2018). Diggers’ dress and identity on the Victorian Goldfields, Australia, 1851‒1870. Fashion Theory. 22(1), pp. 85 - 108. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1266833
Making ‘everything they want but boots’ : Clothing children in Victoria, Australia, 1840–1870
Lorinda Cramer. (2017). Making ‘everything they want but boots’ : Clothing children in Victoria, Australia, 1840–1870. Costume. 51(2), pp. 190-209. https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2017.0024
Business fashion: masculinity, class and dress in 1870s Australia
Bellanta, Melissa. (2017). Business fashion: masculinity, class and dress in 1870s Australia. Australian Historical Studies. 48(2), pp. 189 - 212. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2017.1300178
Making a home in gold-rush Victoria: Plain sewing and the Genteel Woman
Cramer, Lorinda. (2017). Making a home in gold-rush Victoria: Plain sewing and the Genteel Woman. Australian Historical Studies. 48(2), pp. 213 - 226. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2017.1293705
Keeping up appearances: Genteel Women, dress and refurbishing in gold-rush Victoria, Australia, 1851‒1870
Cramer, Lorinda. (2017). Keeping up appearances: Genteel Women, dress and refurbishing in gold-rush Victoria, Australia, 1851‒1870. Textile. 15(1), pp. 48 - 67. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2016.1209876
Leery Sue goes to the show: Popular performance, sexuality and the disorderly girl
Bellanta, Melissa. (2016). Leery Sue goes to the show: Popular performance, sexuality and the disorderly girl. In In S. Robinson and S. Sleight (Ed.). Children, childhood and youth in the British World pp. 237 - 251 Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-137-48941-8_14
Poor Gordon: What the Australian cult of Adam Lindsay Gordon tells us about turn-of-the-twentieth-century masculine sentimentality
Bellanta, Melissa. (2016). Poor Gordon: What the Australian cult of Adam Lindsay Gordon tells us about turn-of-the-twentieth-century masculine sentimentality. Gender and History. 28(2), pp. 401 - 421. https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.12215
His two mates around him were crying : Masculine sentimentality in late-Victorian culture
Bellanta, Melissa. (2015). His two mates around him were crying : Masculine sentimentality in late-Victorian culture. Journal of Victorian Culture. 20(4), pp. 471 - 490. https://doi.org/10.1080/13555502.2015.1090241
A Masculine Romance: The sentimental bloke and Australian culture in the war - and early interwar years
Bellanta, Melissa. (2014). A Masculine Romance: The sentimental bloke and Australian culture in the war - and early interwar years. Journal of Popular Romance Studies. 4(2), pp. 1 - 20.
The leary larrikin : Street style in colonial Australia
Bellanta, Melissa and Sleight, Simon. (2014). The leary larrikin : Street style in colonial Australia. Cultural and Social History. 11(2), pp. 263 - 283. https://doi.org/10.2752/147800414X13893661072915
Uncle Tom in the White Pacific : African-American performances of the 'slave sublime' in late-colonial Australia
Bellanta, Melissa. (2014). Uncle Tom in the White Pacific : African-American performances of the 'slave sublime' in late-colonial Australia. Journal of Colonialism and Colonial History. 5(3), pp. 1 - 10. https://doi.org/10.1353/cch.2014.0048
Bury me deep down below: Masculine sentimentality on the turn-of-the-century Australian frontier
Bellanta, Melissa. (2014). Bury me deep down below: Masculine sentimentality on the turn-of-the-century Australian frontier. Outskirts. 31, pp. 1 - 11.
Looking Flash : Disreputable women's dress and 'modernity', 1870-1910
Bellanta, Melissa and Piper, Alana. (2014). Looking Flash : Disreputable women's dress and 'modernity', 1870-1910. History Workshop Journal. 78(1), pp. 58 - 81. https://doi.org/10.1093/hwj/dbt017
Rethinking the 1890s
Bellanta, Melissa. (2013). Rethinking the 1890s. In In A. Bashford and S. MacIntyre (Ed.). The Cambridge History of Australia pp. 412 - 428 Cambridge University Press.
Naughty and gay?: revisiting the nineties in the Australian colonies
Bellanta, Melissa. (2012). Naughty and gay?: revisiting the nineties in the Australian colonies. History Australia. 9(1), pp. 136 - 154.
Larrikins: A History
Bellanta, Melissa. (2012). Larrikins: A History University of Queensland Press.
Australian masculinities and popular song: the songs of sentimental blokes 1900-1930s
Bellanta, Melissa. (2012). Australian masculinities and popular song: the songs of sentimental blokes 1900-1930s. Australian Historical Studies. 43(3), pp. 412 - 428. https://doi.org/10.1080/1031461X.2012.706619
Naughty and gay? Revisiting the nineties in the Australian colonies
Bellanta, Melissa. (2012). Naughty and gay? Revisiting the nineties in the Australian colonies. History Australia. 9(1), pp. 136 - 154. https://doi.org/10.1080/14490854.2012.11668406
Poor Urban Youth and Popular Theatricals: The Case of Late-19thC Australia
Bellanta, Melissa. (2012). Poor Urban Youth and Popular Theatricals: The Case of Late-19thC Australia. In In G. Arrighi and V. Emeljanow (Ed.). A World of Popular Entertainments: An Edited Volume of Critical Essays pp. 233 - 243 Cambridge Scholars Publishing.
The sins of the son: Country music and masculine sentimentality in 1930s to 1940s Australia
Bellanta, Melissa and Martin, Toby. (2012). The sins of the son: Country music and masculine sentimentality in 1930s to 1940s Australia. Australian Feminist Studies. 27(74), pp. 355 - 372. https://doi.org/10.1080/08164649.2012.734091
Victorian Spiritualism and other black comedies
Bellanta, Melissa. (2011). Victorian Spiritualism and other black comedies. Meanjin. 70(1), pp. 119 - 125.
The larrikin girl
Bellanta, Melissa. (2010). The larrikin girl. Journal of Australian Studies. 34(4), pp. 499 - 512. https://doi.org/10.1080/14443058.2010.519108
Rough Maria and clever Simone: Some introductory remarks on the girl in Australian history
Bellanta, Melissa. (2010). Rough Maria and clever Simone: Some introductory remarks on the girl in Australian history. Journal of Australian Studies. 34(4), pp. 417 - 428. https://doi.org/10.1080/14443058.2010.519313
A hard culture? Religion and politics in turn-of-the-century Australian history
Bellanta, Melissa. (2010). A hard culture? Religion and politics in turn-of-the-century Australian history. Australian Journal of Politics and History. 56(1), pp. 55 - 65. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-8497.2010.01541.x
Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay: Lottie Collins act and the not-so-modern girl
Bellanta, Melissa. (2010). Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay: Lottie Collins act and the not-so-modern girl. Nineteenth Century Theatre and Film. 37(1), pp. 3 - 13. https://doi.org/10.7227/NCTF.37.1.3
Leary Kin: Australian larrikins and the blackface minstrel dandy
Bellanta, Melissa. (2009). Leary Kin: Australian larrikins and the blackface minstrel dandy. Journal of Social History.
16 August 1890: The Maritime Strike Begins. On Utopia and Class War
Bellanta, Melissa. (2009). 16 August 1890: The Maritime Strike Begins. On Utopia and Class War. In In C. H. Ng and P. Renshaw (Ed.). Turning points in Australian history pp. 74 - 86 University of New South Wales Press.
Feminism, mateship and brotherhood in 1890s Adelaide
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). Feminism, mateship and brotherhood in 1890s Adelaide. History Australia.
Voting for pleasure, or a view from a Victorian theatre gallery
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). Voting for pleasure, or a view from a Victorian theatre gallery. M/C Journal.
A man of civic sentiment: the case of William Guthrie Spence
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). A man of civic sentiment: the case of William Guthrie Spence. Journal of Australian Studies. https://doi.org/10.1080/14443050801993826
The larrikin's hop: Larrikinism and late colonial popular theatre
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). The larrikin's hop: Larrikinism and late colonial popular theatre. Australasian Drama Studies.
The Davenport Brothers Down Under: Theatre, Belief and Modernity in 1870s Australia
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). The Davenport Brothers Down Under: Theatre, Belief and Modernity in 1870s Australia. In The impact of the modern: Vernacular modernities in Australia 1870s - 1960s pp. 171 - 184 Sydney University Press.
Engineering the kingdom of god: irrigation, science and the social christian millennium, 1880-1914
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). Engineering the kingdom of god: irrigation, science and the social christian millennium, 1880-1914. Journal of Religious History.
The manliness of radical sentiment: The case of George Napier Birks
Bellanta, Melissa. (2008). The manliness of radical sentiment: The case of George Napier Birks. Australian Historical Studies. 39(3), pp. 322 - 337. https://doi.org/10.1080/10314610802263315